Celebrities and common folk alike have been swearing by glycolic peels for years, and it’s easy to see why; glycolic peels leave skin smoother, helping those who want to look young, stay young. Better yet, cost-effective, at-home treatments can give you soft, smooth skin without having to get out of your pajamas. Glytone Essentials Boost Mini Peel Gel ($50, amazon.com) was a 2011 recipient of Allure’s Best of Beauty Award. The company sent a sample of the peel that boasts a 10.8 free acid value for us to try out. The relatively high concentrations of SD alcohol 40 and propylene […]
Celebrities and common folk alike have been swearing by glycolic peels for years, and it’s easy to see why; glycolic peels leave skin smoother, helping those who want to look young, stay young.
Better yet, cost-effective, at-home treatments can give you soft, smooth skin without having to get out of your pajamas. Glytone Essentials Boost Mini Peel Gel ($50, amazon.com) was a 2011 recipient of Allure’s Best of Beauty Award. The company sent a sample of the peel that boasts a 10.8 free acid value for us to try out.
The relatively high concentrations of SD alcohol 40 and propylene glycol in Glytone’s product make the skin more permeable, and subsequently allow the glycolic acid to better penetrate. But that means that those with sensitive skin might want to avoid this one.
SD Alcohol 40-A
A high concentration of SD alcohol 40 means glycolic acid will penetrate deeply into the skin, but it can be irritating for those with sensitive skin or certain skin issues.
Known as denatured alcohol, this is pretty much just ethanol with some additives (such as methanol or acetone) to make it unfit to ingest. When researching the effects of ethanol on skin, most of the existing studies investigate oral consumption; it is common knowledge that consuming ethanol can cause a variety of skin problems, from psoriasis to delayed wound healing.
In terms of topical SD alcohol 40-A, the answer isn’t as simple. Ethanol is usually used in transdermal delivery systems in order to remove the lipid barrier material from the stratum corneum, thus rending the skin more permeable to other ingredients (Journal of Occupational Medicine and Toxicology). The increase in penetration by SD Alcohol 40 for other ingredients is dose-dependent, which means that you should consider your skin type before using this product.
If you have sensitive skin, eczema, psoriasis, or a similar condition, then this might be irritating. If, however, you’re able to go glycolic acid-happy with no problem, then this could be a great mini peel for you.
[Read More: Is SD Alcohol Harmful for the Skin?]
Glycolic Acid
Glycolic acid both exfoliates and increases moisture by boosting hyaluronic acid in the skin.
Glycolic acid is the smallest of the alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and is a common ingredient in skincare ingredients. Both in vitro and in vivo tests have shown it to increase collagen production, fibroblast proliferation, and cell turnover rates (Dermatologic Surgery).
[Read More: Spotlight On: Alpha Hydroxy Acids]
Glycolic acid acts as both a moisturizer and an exfoliator: By increasing the skin’s supply of hyaluronic acid, which can hold many times its weight in water, glycolic acid is included in skincare products as a humectant. It also exfoliates by increasing corneocyte desquamation, resulting in increased epidermal proliferation. And you know what that means: smoother, more elastic skin (Skin Therapy Letter).
However, if you’re using a product containing glycolic acid, be extra cautious about sun exposure, especially with products containing a higher free acid value. Glytone Essentials Boost Mini Peel clocks in at an acid value of 10.8. The higher the value, the more biologic activity, and the more sensitive your skin is to sun (Skin Therapy Letter).
Propylene Glycol
Propylene glycol is a penetration enhancer that works to deliver ingredients into the skin.
Propylene glycol has traditionally been used in cosmetics as both a delivery system and a moisturizer; however, it has been known to cause adverse skin reactions at concentrations as low as 10% in normal skin, or even at 2% in those with dermatitis. However, irritation and toxicity usually occurs with repeated use of high concentrations on already-damaged skin barriers (American Journal of Clinical Dermatology).
[Read More: Is Propylene Glycol Harmful in Beauty Products?]
So, in cosmetic formulations, propylene glycol is generally safe, but you should be wary of using it in conjunction with other irritating ingredients as it increases skin permeability (Journal of Controlled Release).
Overall: ***
Glytone Boost Mini Peel made my skin feel smoother and other than a little temporary tingling and redness, I had no irritation.
I was pleased to find that Glytone Essentials Boost Mini Peel Gel made my skin feel quite a bit smoother the first time I used it. The initial use didn’t make my skin look as radiant as reviews I’d read promised, but I saw more changes with subsequent use.
Initially, there was a little tingling and warming when I applied the gel, but it went away after I washed the peel off. My skin was a little red for the rest of the night after I used it, but by the morning it was back to my normal coloring. Other than that, I had little irritation and my skin was noticeably smoother.
If you don’t have sensitive skin, eczema, psoriasis, or a similar skin condition, and you want the benefits of a glycolic acid peel at home, this Allure Best of Beauty winner could definitely do the trick.
Ingredients: water (Aqua), SD alcohol 40-A, glycolic acid, propylene glycol, hydroxypropylcellulose, potassium hydroxide, BHT
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